Spain

1/3: Spain 2019 - San Sebastián to Barcelona: Bonfires, Old Town Nights, and a Coastline That Looks Unreal

I leave France and arrive in Spain in the north, starting in San Sebastián. It is my first time here, and I can feel immediately that this is not just Spain. It is the Basque Country. The signs and language feel different. There are messages everywhere about identity, freedom, and belonging.

The city itself is stunning. The beach curves like a crescent moon, with a layer of buildings and then mountains behind them like the world is stacked in perfect rows. Aiden and I walk the old town and bounce between tapas bars, watching the culture move through food and conversation. We hike up to a lookout point and see the whole bay spread out in front of us, and I remember thinking this does not look real.

One night we hear about a summer bonfire party at Zurriola Beach. We go with people from our hostel and find the beach lit with fires and packed with energy. We stay for most of the night, just being teenagers in Spain, surrounded by strangers who feel like friends because that is what travel does.

From there we get an unexpected gift. An older Australian couple offers us a ride from San Sebastián to Barcelona. We say yes, because we need a way and because the trip is teaching us to accept kindness.

Barcelona hits different. The architecture feels fluid, like coral reefs turned into buildings. We explore the city with Mark, visiting famous spots like the Sagrada Familia from the outside, Plaza España, and the city’s waterfront. We go to La Boqueria market and walk through color and noise and food.

And again, politics shows up. There are signs about Catalonia everywhere. It reminds me that Europe is not just old buildings and beaches. It is living identity.

Spain becomes one of those places I feel in my chest, not just in my memory. Heat, language, music in the streets, bonfires on the beach, and the feeling that this trip is turning into something bigger than I ever expected.

2/3: Spain, 2022 — Family, Citizenship, and the Heart of the Country

In 2023, I traveled to Spain with my mom and my cousin Claudia for a week and a half to take our Spanish citizenship tests. It was meaningful travel—the kind tied to history, paperwork, and legacy—but it was also deeply personal.

We flew into Madrid and road-tripped across the country, stopping in Segovia, Toledo, Granada, and beyond. Driving everywhere gave us freedom. We stayed in Airbnbs, cooked meals together, and spent real time just being a family.

Madrid in the summer was brutal—possibly the hottest place I’ve ever walked for pleasure—but we explored the city on foot anyway. We walked endlessly, visited the Palacio Real, wandered museums, and soaked in the intensity of the city.

One of my favorite food memories from the trip was Las Bravas, which had some of the best food I’ve ever had. Simple. Bold. Perfect.

In Granada, we signed our citizenship papers, explored the Alhambra, and watched flamenco dancers perform in caves carved into the hillsides—raw, emotional, unforgettable.

That trip wasn’t about adventure in the traditional sense. It was about roots. About history. About standing in places that mattered to my family and understanding where I come from.

3/3: Spain, Summer 2024 — Asturias, Peaks, and Leading with Moondance

The following summer, Spain became something entirely different.

In 2024, I returned as a leader with Moondance Adventures, co-leading trips across Spain with my co-leader Cassidy. Moondance pushes teenagers outside their comfort zones through challenge, reflection, and shared experience—and Spain was the perfect classroom.

Our leadership team arrived in Madrid a day early to prepare, scout food options, and get grounded in the culture before students arrived. Once the group landed, we split from the other leaders and immediately drove north.

Spanish road trips teach you one thing quickly: Spain loves bread. We stopped for bocadillos—massive sandwiches that somehow contain more bread than filling—and continued toward northern Spain.

Asturias and the Atlantic Coast

We spent most of our time in Asturias, a region along the Atlantic coast that feels nothing like southern Spain. It’s green—shockingly green. In one day, you can surf in the ocean and hike jagged mountain peaks.

We stayed in the town of Llanes, located along the Camino de Santiago. Our first full day began with canyoneering—slipping, sliding, and laughing our way down river-carved stone in padded wetsuits that looked ridiculous on everyone.

That afternoon, we surfed.

Over three sessions, we surfed constantly—learning alongside students, falling endlessly, and celebrating tiny victories. After long days, we’d return to the apartment, eat together, and wind down.

Into the Picos de Europa

From Llanes, we headed inland toward the Picos de Europa—a mountain range that still doesn’t feel real to me. These peaks rise straight out of the ground, jagged and dramatic, shaped by ancient seas.

We stayed at Vega de Bañu, the most breathtaking place I’ve ever spent the night. The family that runs it has lived there for generations. Their massive guard dog looked more like a bear than a dog and existed solely to protect livestock from wolves.

That night, we had one of the best Moonups of my life. Moonup is a nightly reflection circle—quiet, intentional, meaningful. In the middle of it, a donkey wandered into the circle and sat down. We paused, laughed, took photos, and then continued.

It was perfect.

The next day, we hiked a nearby peak, returned for lunch, and then descended into Sotres.

Gorges, Storms, and Small Moments

From Sotres, we tackled the Cares Gorge—a narrow trail carved into rock with sheer drops hundreds of feet below. It was stunning and intimidating, especially when people brought dogs onto the trail.

We hiked peaks, watched afternoon storms roll through the valleys, and held Moonups overlooking endless ridgelines as the sun set. At night, we wandered ancient streets back to our hostel.

There were small moments everywhere—jumping into swimming holes, sharing ice cream, trying different cured hams, buying a two-liter soda for the group to share. Micro-memories that mattered more than big landmarks.

Ending in Madrid

Each session ended back in Madrid. One final group dinner. One last Moonup in a park. And then a surprise stop at San Ginés, a churro and chocolate shop that’s been open for over a century.

Watching students experience that moment—tired, emotional, fulfilled—was always the perfect ending.

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