Jordan

By Sebastian LaTorre

Crossing the open desert of Wadi Rum, where the scale of the landscape makes time feel irrelevant.

Lawrence of Arabia Relived

I arrived in Jordan on a one way flight from Cairo to Amman, not really knowing what to expect. From the moment I landed, the country felt calm, clean, and welcoming in a way that surprised me. I took the local bus from the airport into the city, then an Uber to my hostel, watching the hills of Amman roll past the windows as the city slowly revealed itself.

At the hostel, I met Mohammed, a Palestinian innkeeper with a warm presence who immediately made the place feel like home. While we were talking, I heard someone call out, “Yo, are you from the States?” I turned around and met Casanova, a fellow traveler whose Southern charm and energy instantly stood out. We started talking, and within minutes it felt like we had known each other for years.

First Walks Through Amman

That same afternoon, Casanova and I decided to explore the city together. We walked from the Castle Star Hostel toward the Amman Citadel, taking a shortcut up an unpaved trail that climbed through the hills. Along the way, we stumbled upon a group of men herding pigeons through the sky using whistles, guiding their flight patterns with precision. Against the backdrop of Amman’s rolling hills and dense neighborhoods, it felt like watching a tradition that had existed long before tourism ever arrived.

As we continued walking, a Turkish man called out to us and joined the conversation. Just like that, our small group grew. By the time we reached the Citadel, we were laughing, sharing stories, and taking photos while sitting on ancient ruins beneath a massive Jordanian flag waving against the sky.

While we were up there, Casanova spotted a woman exploring on her own and asked if she was traveling solo. That was how we met Renee. She immediately clicked with our group, and before long we were all wandering the city together.

Rainbow Street and the Best Kebab in the World

From the Citadel, Casanova led us toward Rainbow Street, walking past colorful streets filled with energy and everyday life. Books were laid out on old cars, alleyways glowed green with plants and outdoor seating, and lanterns hung overhead as the evening settled in.

That night, we found a kebab spot that boldly claimed to serve the best kebabs in the world. The place was called Chwarma 3ASAJ, and it absolutely lived up to the hype. The shawarma was stuffed with cheese and wrapped more like a burrito than a traditional kebab, hot, messy, and unreal. We sat outside on plastic chairs late into the night, the air still warm even after the sun had gone down. That became our routine in Amman. Long days of walking followed by late night kebabs on the street that somehow tasted better every time.

Floating in the Dead Sea and Ancient Cities

The next morning, Renee and I met up with Ahmed and drove early to the Dead Sea. Floating there felt unreal. The water was so dense it was impossible to sink, and salt crystals clung to the rocks along the shore. The moment you stepped out, your skin felt instantly dry, and it became a race to cover yourself in lotion. Across the water, Israel was visible in the distance, adding another layer to how surreal the place felt.

From there, we traveled north to Jerash, exploring ancient Roman ruins that once ruled the region. Walking through the Oval Plaza, the Temple of Zeus, and the Southern Theater gave a real sense of how important this area once was in the ancient world.

Floating in the Dead Sea, where the salt-heavy water lifts you without effort and time slows to a quiet, surreal pause.

Petra Before the Crowds

After returning to Amman, we made our way south toward Petra. I spent the first day resting, staying in my room and watching the entire second season of Stranger Things. It was the reset I didn’t know I needed before the early morning ahead.

We woke up before sunrise to be among the first people inside Petra. Walking through the canyon in the dark and watching the Treasury appear as the light slowly crept in was one of those moments that feels completely still in your memory.

As the sun rose, the red sandstone walls revealed swirling patterns that looked almost painted.

Petra is massive. From the visitor center to the monastery and beyond, the walk stretches close to seven miles if you explore fully. By the time we reached the monastery, we had already walked for hours, but arriving early meant we avoided the heat and crowds. Past the monastery, we climbed even higher to a viewpoint where we sat quietly with coffee, watching the Jordanian flag wave above the ancient city.

On the way down, the city was packed with people, camels posing for photos, and the noise of tourism fully awake. The long walk back felt endless, but worth every step.

That night, we ran into friends again, smoked hookah, and watched Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, filmed right there in Jordan. It felt like the perfect end to a long day.

A quiet moment at Petra as a camel rests beneath the Treasury, carved directly into rose-colored sandstone and surrounded by centuries of history.

saying goodbye to our friend

Walking the Desert of Wadi Rum

The next morning, we headed to Wadi Rum. Once there, we set out on a long walk through the desert with our guide, covering nearly sixteen kilometers through deep red sand. Hiking through sand mile after mile wears on your legs quickly, but the landscape made it impossible to complain. Towering rock formations rose on both sides, and the silence stretched endlessly.

Midway through the hike, we stopped for lunch while our guide made a small fire. Simple food, shared stories, and shade from the sun felt like everything we needed in that moment. Later, we passed wild camels and narrow rock corridors where vehicles could not reach.

That evening, we rode camels and watched one of the most incredible sunsets I have ever seen. The red sands glowed under deep blue skies as the light softened and the desert cooled.

The next day, we explored more of Wadi Rum, running into familiar faces again and sharing laughs as if we had all planned the same route from the start. On the drive back to Amman, we passed camels tied along the highway, chewing on cardboard in the heat, a strange and sobering sight to end the desert journey.

Saying Goodbye to Jordan

Back in Amman, we shared one final dinner together before heading our separate ways. Jordan felt like a place built around movement. People crossing paths again and again, friendships forming quickly, and landscapes that feel ancient and alive at the same time.

Jordan stayed with me not because of any single moment, but because of how naturally everything flowed. From city streets to ancient ruins to endless desert, it was a place that unfolded one scene at a time, leaving memories that still feel vivid long after leaving.